The Next Level of Riding - The SPITI Valley - Part 5 - The Journey Home

It was 7 AM when we left the tent at Batal and got on our way towards Gramphu and Manali. We were hoping that we would be able to cross the Ice Slush today, as most of the water would have either drained or would have solidified. After crossing the same set of water crossings for the third time, we stopped at the Ice crossing and walked through it. Everything seemed better, the ice water had solidified, and though it was still a challenge, we were confident we would get the bikes across.

Working as a team of 3 members each, one group pushed the bike up to the top across the ice, and then the other group took over and got it across the slushy slipper ice that was starting to melt again. One by one, we got each bike across. After the 3rd bike, a huge herd of sheep and goats went past, flattening the ice but also melting it further. The last two bikes were the most challenging, as the ice had now melted, the slush was knee deep, and we too were tired. See the video of me getting my bike across below.

The Next Level of Riding - The SPITI Valley - Part 4 - Kaza onwards

After a full day's rest at Kaza, the body and the machine were ready to head out. Having filled fuel at the world's highest retail fuel outlet, the machines were ready to thump. Our planned target for the day was Manali, and having crossed through the varied types of road so far, we were confident of making it.

World's Highest Retail Fuel Outlet

Within meters of exiting Kaza, the all too familiar pot holed roads began. Losar was around 60kms away, and was the target of our first stop. A few kms out of Kaza, we went past a bridge on our left, assuming due to the lack of signboards that the right road is straight ahead. Luckily, at the town of Kii, a few helpful localites told us of the correct route. We had to take a left on that bridge, and as we returned we saw the signboards. They were facing the wrong direction.

Location of the 3rd puncture of the ride

Back on the right road, we zoomed ahead. The road was comparatively better than what we had seen so far. The skies were dark, and there was a slight chill in the air. In the distance, we could see a bit of rainfall. And just then, Jerin's bike got punctured yet again, right in between a patch of slush and water. We had no choice but to fix the puncture right there. Pushing the bike out of that area could possibly damage the rim. Changing the tube was a breeze. The punctures were happening because the tyre had worn out. We tried to do some R&D and place the cut up old tube as packing inside the tyre, but decided against it, as it would sit unevenly and cause wobbling. While trying to place the wheel back, we ran into some major trouble. The Disc was not willing to sit between the brake calipers. After quite a bit of struggling, I figured the best course of action would be to force the piston back and create more space between the calipers. This did the trick, and we got everything fit back.

The Next Level of Riding - The SPITI Valley - Part 3 - Kalpa to Kaza

After a beautiful evening at Kalpa and a good night's sleep, I woke up to the magnificent view of Mount Kinnaur Kailash. Fresh and energetic, I saddled up, and we were ready to leave by 6.30. Kaza is around 200km from Kalpa and going by the roads so far, we knew it was going to be a long day of riding.

Just as soon as we descended from Reckong Peo, we faced roads that look very similar to the railway tracks minus the steel rails (only stones). The road was extremely narrow, filled with stones. The road would suddenly narrow down further, and when I looked down, I could see the long fall below. Scary. Each time I looked down, my adrenaline shot up, I felt scared, but each time a smile would also instantly crop up on my face and I would start laughing. It was an awesome feeling, and I was loving each and every second of it.

The Next Level of Riding - The SPITI Valley - Part 2 - Shimla to Kalpa

A new day, an early start. In those early morning hours, Shimla had a magical charm to it. The streets were silent, there was a cool breeze blowing, the view was beautiful. Just what was needed to give the day an amazing start.

Kalpa our target for the day was around 230km away. 230km might seem a very small distance to target for a whole day, but given the absence of roads, poor condition of the small stretches of tarmac, it was a smart target. There was also a big landslide between Tapri and Chooling to worry about.

The winding road from Shimla led us through reasonably decent roads. Curve after curve we rode until we got our first glimpse of the Sutlej river and valley. The view was amazing. A wide deep valley full of greens. I rode back a couple of kms from where the group had stopped to capture this shot of the valley, totally worth it.

We reached the small town of Narkandha by 9.15 and took a break for some breakfast, Aloo parathas, Paneer Parathas and Omelettes. Shimla to Narkandha is exactly 60 kms, but yet it took us 3 hours.

The Next Level of Riding - The SPITI Valley - Part 1 - Chandigarh to Shimla

Its been a year since my ride to the himalayas, to Leh, to Ladakh and to Jammu & Kashmir. I had been itching to get back to those hills and mountains ever since the day I landed back in Bengaluru.

Fauji Bull all set to leave

I grabbed the opportunity to ride to Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur valleys as soon as it was announced in our club, Royal Indians Enfield Owner's Club (R.I.E.O.C). The restriction put on this ride by the club was that only riders who have experienced terrains such as Leh are allowed to join the ride. The maximum number of riders were also restricted to 6-8 members considering the uncertainty of the terrain. There was also a general lack of information about the whole area, with information coming only from a few sources. BCM touring forums were really helpful in getting status updates on road closures and conditions.

There was a different type of excitement this time around. I knew how to pack and prepare myself. I knew the spares I needed to carry, and I can say with confidence that I was much much more well versed with repair of the vehicles. Along with me were 5 other club veterans, each holding achievements of their own. We were indeed an elite team of riders, and this experience allowed us to gel and respect each other instantly, which became of paramount importance during the trip.

Getting Leh'd : Anger Management

The city of Budhkarbo at night

I woke up at 7am, opening my eyes I saw a few empty beds and a few with people snoring away. I stepped out and took another view of the valley. Very different from how it was the previous night. Apart from the small town the valley was completely empty. The camp also looked very different. It had been filled with military trucks the previous night, with no space for even an extra vehicle, but by morning the camp bore a deserted look. After my morning oblusions, I went to the mess to have some breakfast. I hogged myself down on some awesome puris, with some soya veggies and scrambled eggs.

Getting Leh'd : War Stories

Trying to utilise my acting skills

So, as you have read so far, we were all at the Drass army camp, with a broken down bike and a scary night's sleep. Para woke Bala, Gogo & me up at around 6. The prime focus was to try and fix his bike. I could only imagine how badly Para must have been praying, probably to some new gods as well, hoping that somehow we would manage to get his bike up and running. We removed the petrol tank and emptied it. Then pulled out the fuel filter and pump assembly and tried cleaning it. This is one awesome part of being the sweep. At every point, we are constantly discovering and learning more & more about our bikes. Gaining more confidence in our skills each time. After cleaning it and assembling it all back, we were all hoping, praying, begging for it to work, but alas, once-in-a-while prayers rarely work, and no miracle happened. Poor Para, god only knows how he felt. Much to his dismay, I had to secure the tow rope onto his bike again. The army officer told me that we might be able to find an empty truck at Drass town, and so the tow till town started.