The Next Level of Riding - The SPITI Valley - Part 4 - Kaza onwards

After a full day's rest at Kaza, the body and the machine were ready to head out. Having filled fuel at the world's highest retail fuel outlet, the machines were ready to thump. Our planned target for the day was Manali, and having crossed through the varied types of road so far, we were confident of making it.

World's Highest Retail Fuel Outlet

Within meters of exiting Kaza, the all too familiar pot holed roads began. Losar was around 60kms away, and was the target of our first stop. A few kms out of Kaza, we went past a bridge on our left, assuming due to the lack of signboards that the right road is straight ahead. Luckily, at the town of Kii, a few helpful localites told us of the correct route. We had to take a left on that bridge, and as we returned we saw the signboards. They were facing the wrong direction.

Location of the 3rd puncture of the ride

Back on the right road, we zoomed ahead. The road was comparatively better than what we had seen so far. The skies were dark, and there was a slight chill in the air. In the distance, we could see a bit of rainfall. And just then, Jerin's bike got punctured yet again, right in between a patch of slush and water. We had no choice but to fix the puncture right there. Pushing the bike out of that area could possibly damage the rim. Changing the tube was a breeze. The punctures were happening because the tyre had worn out. We tried to do some R&D and place the cut up old tube as packing inside the tyre, but decided against it, as it would sit unevenly and cause wobbling. While trying to place the wheel back, we ran into some major trouble. The Disc was not willing to sit between the brake calipers. After quite a bit of struggling, I figured the best course of action would be to force the piston back and create more space between the calipers. This did the trick, and we got everything fit back.



We started to get our first taste of this ride's water crossing. The video below shows the very first one, and in comparison to what was ahead, this can at best be described as a puddle crossing and nothing more.\

For a small stretch, the road was once again clean tarmac, and the backdrop was a fantastic majestic snow capped mountain that called for attention. And ofcourse, we too wanted to give it the attention. We stopped for a group pic.

The feeling of True Accomplishment

Roads turned for the worse. Stones, stones and more stones. We identified the road to be the path with the smallest stones and pushed our bulls through. The water crossings were slowly intensifying, and I for one, was really beginning to enjoy the challenge they brought. See the two videos below for a glimpse of the road conditions.
We reached the town of Losar and stopped for some food. The 60 kms till Losar had taken us close to 5 hours. Opposite to the hotel we sat, was the BRO camp. From there we got information that after Batal was a section of ice, but they also told us that it could be crossed as long as we were slow and did not use our brakes. To reach Batal, we first had to cross Kunzum La.

And so, we started the ascent to Kunzum top through roads pretty similar to what's scene in the above videos. We also saw what was probably the last bit of ice walls for the season melting away leaving a steady stream of water in its wake. Right at the back, was another mountain, covered with snow. It felt as if we were riding on a road that would eventually take us there. As we went higher and higher, we started to realise how alone we really were in this terrain. Not a single soul apart from the 6 of us. No one. And the absence of humans gave it an even more unique flavour. Having been through many passes in the Leh circuit, I was used to high altitude passes and the view they offer, but seeing one devoid of life, gave it a very calm yet eerie feel.

Kunzum Top

On the way down, is where it got harder and harder. Try to picture a 50 degree decline on a road which has nothing but stones, where the tyres don't get any grip at all. You cant use your brakes, as your wheels will instantly lock up. Your only means of controlling your bike is via engine braking, which really doesnt work considering your already on 1st or 2nd gear. Add to this, water streams flowing down causing your bike to slip and slide even more. One small mistake, and you fall down. One big mistake and you can kiss yourself goodbye as you see the others become tiny dots and the valley below becomes bigger and bigger. Finding it hard to imagine, then check out the videos below and probably you too might feel the chill go down your spine.

After the thrilling descent, we reached Batal and enjoyed some awesome tea at the tent (Chandra Dhaba) there. The tent is run by a senior couple, who have lived there for 30+ years. They have saved countless lives of travelers stuck due to snow, ice, and landslides. Lovingly everyone who visits the tent calls them Chacha and Chachi. And they too lovingly call all their customers, Beta and Beti. Chacha told us that there is Ice up ahead but 2 bikers had made it in the early hours, and so we too might be able to.

Chacha and Chachi

Chandra Dhaba - Batal ( A must stop)

8 kms from the tent at Batal we found the ice. Those 8kms itself was a challenge. We had to wade through hip deep water, ice walls, and at one point we couldn't even find the road. See the videos and photos below to get an idea of the experience.

After battling through that much freezing cold water, we found the road blocked ahead. A Tempo traveler had attempted to cross the ice and had got stuck. On the other side, a Dozer was busy trying to get the TT out. After speaking to the passengers of the TT, we found out that it had been stuck there since 11am, almost 3 hours. We helped push the TT out of the ice and got it free, only to find the next TT guy rush through the same patch of ice hoping to clear it. Well, ofcourse he didnt, and we had to help get him out as well. After all this effort, the BRO guys requested us to wait for an hour while they clear out some of the ice making it easy for us to pass through.

We waited and waited. For 4 hours we waited. While the BRO guys pushed tons and tons of ice out. The real problem he was facing was that a lot of water had clogged up, and he needed to create an exit for it. As he was not able to accurately identify the road underneath, he was scared to dig out the snow, in fear that it would be ice underneath, which would give way and lead to the dozer taking a dive into the river (infact this had happened exactly a week ago).

After all his efforts, he too gave up, promising us that he would come the next day morning and clear it. We walked through the patch, and felt there was too much water to think of pushing the bikes through. Shridhar decided that it would be better to try and cross the next day morning, when the water would have frozen. As we found out the next day, that was a life saving decision. Had Shri not made the call, we would have probably died of Hypothermia. Now the reason for the confusion and the tough call, everyone we asked said that the road ahead of the ice, was like butter. That we could easily reach Manali. Lesson learnt, never ask people how the road ahead is. The whole of the Spiti valley has bad roads. Its not going to improve, so expect the worst and plan for it well in advance.

It was already dark, as we raced back to Batal. 2 other TTs filled with people had taken a u-turn and raced back to Batal when they realized that they wouldnt get through. As we rode back through the same water crossings, which had now become river crossings (Water flow increases tremendously towards the late hours of the day), we were praying that Chacha and Chachi's tent would have place for us to sleep. Fortunately, as soon as we reached the tent, Chacha told us "Haan beta. Aap log ke liye jaga hai" (Yes, there is place for you). What a relief.


It had taken the whole day just to travel 87kms. Had the ice crossing not been there, we probably would have gone much further. But had the ice crossing not been there, then we would not have had one of the best experiences of the ride!!!

Part 3

Part 5